Autumn 2018, two passionate nature photographers set off on a unique nature photography trip to Tanzania. From October 22 to November 9, my fellow photographer Philine Klenk and I set off to capture the fascinating wildlife of East Africa with our cameras. Our route takes us through the “Northern Safari Circuit”: from Arusha to Tarangire National Park, on to the Ngorongoro Crater, the Serengeti, Lake Natron and back to Arusha. In order to have maximum photographic flexibility, we opt for a self-drive Tanzania safari – a rather unusual undertaking, as we will find out later.

Preparation for our Tanzania photo trip

After deciding on Africa, and Tanzania in particular, as the destination for our photo trip, we booked a flight with Turkish Airlines. The route led from Munich via Istanbul to Kilimanjaro, with a stopover in Zanzibar. The flight went absolutely smoothly, without any complications with luggage, photographic equipment or flight times.

The necessary vaccinations (yellow fever, hepatitis and standard vaccinations) as well as the required malaria prophylaxis were taken care of in good time. For our safari, we booked a robust Toyota Landcruiser from Shilashi Car Rental in Arusha – the only sensible choice for a self-drive safari in Tanzania. The cheaper Toyota RAV4 was out of the question for our photographic ambitions – too little ground clearance and space for the equipment.

As nature photographers, we are faced with the crucial question of the optimal equipment for such a nature photography trip. Here is my detailed packing list for the Tanzania safari:

Photo equipment for safari in Tanzania

• Nikon D4
• Nikon D800
• Nikkor 500mm
• Nikkor 80-400mm
• Nikkor 14-24mm
• Nikkor 24-85mm
• Sigma 150mm Macro
• 4 batteries D4
• 4 batteries D800
• Memory cards (approx. 256GB)
• Sensor cleaning
• Chargers
• Tripod & monopod
• Eckla Eagle car windshield stand
• Manfrotto tripod head 501
• 1.4x TC14E III converter
• Bean bag (empty)
• Radio remote release
• Flash SB900
• Flash SB28
• Flash Trigger Yongnuo
• small reflector
• Binoculars Minox 10×42
• Laptop + hard disks (backup!)

On a safari like this, it is essential to take two camera bodies with you – as a backup in case of technical problems. Tripods were mainly used for Milky Way photography, the rest of the photography was done from the vehicle.

Day 1-5 of the Tanzania trip

We traveled via Kilimanjaro Airport with Turkish Airlines (MUC – IST – Zanzibar – Kilimanjaro), landing at 05:30. We had reserved a Land Rover with Shilashi Car Rental and had already paid a 30% deposit. The vehicle handover at the airport went smoothly and professionally, then we went to the company office on the outskirts of Arusha. First impressions of the road conditions: Main roads well paved, secondary roads barely passable.

A police checkpoint stopped us on the way. Not for speeding – our driver discreetly pulled out 10,000 TSH and said: “I can talk to them”. His attempts at bribery failed, however, as the vehicle still had outstanding fines from the previous tenants. The driver explained the cashless fine system to us.

Now we start to put together the camping equipment we need for our Tanzania safari from an extensive range in the Shilashi office:

We then start to collect the camping gear we requested from Shilashi from a mountain of all kinds of utensils in the office:

• Cooler box
• GPS device
• Voltage converter (for charging the camera batteries)
• Spare tire
• Tent
• Camping chairs & table
• Cookware, plates, cutlery
• Gas stove
• Jack, wheel wrench, fire extinguisher, tow rope, jumper cables, etc.
• Shovel
• Empty storage boxes

For our nature photography trip, we plan to stay overnight at the public campsites in the national parks. The camping equipment provided meets all our requirements.

We need cash for the vehicle rental (not available at the airport). At Barclays we can withdraw cash at the counter, but with an upper limit of 800 USD per card. My VISA card had a limit of 500 USD, which required some improvisation.

Humphrey from Shilashi then accompanies us to the Airtel store for a local SIM card. After buying a gas cylinder, he takes us to a supermarket, which we quickly leave again due to the exorbitant prices. Instead, we shop at “Nakumat”, where the prices are roughly the same as in Europe. Here we find all the safari essentials: canned food, pasta, salt, rice, bread, fresh onions and cookies.

The drive to Tarangire National Park from Arusha takes around 1:45 hours on well-maintained asphalt roads. Together with other safari vehicles, donkey carts and motorcycles, we cruise relaxed at 80 km/h to the park. We are greeted by friendly rangers at the entrance. The entry process is a little cumbersome: enter vehicle and personal details, hand them in at the ticket office, pay by VISA, collect the permit and have it stamped at the gate. We spend the night at the northern public campsite. Important: The 24-hour entry requires precise time planning for entry and exit.

The public campsite is exceptionally well maintained and, like all public campsites during a Tanzania safari, offers a fully equipped kitchen, a dining room and sanitary facilities. The toilets and showers at Tarangire are remarkably clean by African standards and are maintained throughout the day by a dedicated national park staff member. He also checks the permits and is on hand to answer any questions.

Before nightfall, we go on our first short game drive in the vicinity of the campsite – perfect for our first nature photography shots of giraffes, zebras and elephants.

The second day begins with a challenge: our Toyota Landcruiser gets stuck in the sandy riverbed. Our lack of familiarity with the vehicle leads to us getting stuck on a stone in the deep sand – even the differential lock doesn’t help. We dig for 1.5 hours with our spade until the car is free again. The optimum photo light has already passed. Our safari takes us eastwards to the course of the river, where few animals are initially visible due to the dry season. At the Tarangire River, things get more exciting with numerous photo opportunities of zebras, elephants and giraffes. The river is the life-giver of the park with pleasantly mild temperatures under an overcast sky.

We spend the rest of the day on extended game drives. The friendly guides, who regularly stop next to us, always ask: “Have you seen the lion?” While the guides (we are the only self-drivers) mainly focus on the “Big Five”, we also devote ourselves to fork-tailed leopards and klipsliders on our nature photography trip. Most of the elephants can be found along the river, where we make intensive use of the signposted river circuits.

During our safari, we observe an impressive variety of wildlife: majestic elephants, regal lions, graceful Thomson’s gazelles, swift impalas, elegant cheetahs, cute hares, striped zebras, mighty wildebeests, imposing ostriches and tall giraffes – the animal density in Tarangire National Park is overwhelming. In the evening, we discover a promising den of bat-eared foxes, and despite suboptimal photo conditions, we decide to spend the coming dawn and dusk here for our nature photography.

The third day of our Tanzania safari takes an unexpected turn: east of the river, in an area we already know, we are surprised by a tropical downpour. After thirty minutes of intense rain, the paths are barely recognizable and actually impassable.

Nevertheless, we dare to continue – with fatal consequences. The muddy surface resembles a slide and our Land Rover sinks into a mud hole. Neither digging out nor momentum bring success. With the help of the national park hotline, whose number we have fortunately noted down, we organize assistance. A rescue team consisting of a ranger, a park employee and a petite African woman rushes to the rescue. Particularly impressive: the helpful employee, standing barefoot and with his trousers rolled up to his knees in the mud, crushing the stubborn sandstone. With combined forces, our vehicle is freed and we reach the campsite on time at 6:30 pm, where we fortify ourselves with spaghetti and tomato sauce.

The following applies in the Tanzanian national parks: Driving only “during daylight” (6:00-19:00), otherwise stay in the camps. Getting out when animals are present is prohibited – see the back of the permit.

On the fourth day of our nature photography trip, we notice a planning error: we have booked one night too few. At 09:30 we make a momentous decision: We extend our permit at the gate, then refuel (the nearest petrol station is 60km away and only accepts cash) and don’t reach the gate again until 2pm. We overlook one detail: the permits are valid for 24 hours, which means that we have to leave the park at 09:30 on the last day. An annoying situation.

The fifth day of our Tanzania safari takes us to Silale Swamp in the south-eastern part of the park. The view is breathtaking: an intensely green carpet stretches out under the hazy sky, appearing like a mirage after the previous drought. Unfortunately, our drive along the northern swamp remains without any animal encounters worth mentioning. We spend the sunset with the bat-eared foxes again.

Day 6: Drive to Ngorongoro

After a final morning of wonderful nature photography with the bat-eared foxes, we leave the gate for Karatu at 09:30 on the dot, as prescribed on the permit. The exit stamp is essential to avoid further fees. The tarmac road makes for a speedy, uneventful drive. At Lake Manyara, shortly before Mto wa Mbu, we dutifully stop at a roadblock with “Stop” signs. An amused policeman praises our conscientiousness.

There are regular speed checks with laser measuring devices along the main road. Police vehicles can be recognized by their “PT” license plates and the officers wear snow-white uniforms. If the 50 km/h limit is observed, everything runs smoothly.

We reach Karatu well ahead of schedule and check into the Ngorongoro Lodge and Campsite – a welcome luxury on our nature photography trip. The accommodation offers hot water, a restaurant and even a pool. After washing our clothes, we try to do some shopping in the lodge’s own store, which turns out to be a costly decision. As the store does not stock 5-liter water canisters, we explore the “Deus” supermarket in Karatu – a modest store with wall-high shelves. We pay an overpriced 45,000 TSH (around €20) for four 5-liter canisters and two Cokes.

For our safari in the Ngorongoro Crater, we decide to hire a guide as we only have one day for photography. The Agama Tours office is conveniently located right next to the lodge, and Kabalo arranges a guide for 50 USD to take us through the crater.

Day 7: Photos in Ngorongoro Crater

During our Tanzania safari, we experience the booking procedure of the Ngorongoro Crater Administration Authority (NCAA). Agama Tours uses their online portal for the reservation, which generates a code for payment. Due to technical difficulties and poor network reception, our driver has to generate a new code at the gate. The alternative of paying directly on site is confusing due to unclear procedures and various counters. It is difficult to find our way through the throng of people, especially when other guides do not keep to the queues. The whole process delays our entry by an hour, so we can only pass through at 09:30. We reach the crater at 10:30 a.m. – unfortunately too late for optimal lighting conditions for nature photography.

The crater itself is an impressive natural spectacle for our nature photography trip. A huge basin with a flat floor, surrounded by eroded caldera walls that are lush with rainforest. The wildlife in the crater is rather limited during our Tanzania safari and we experience the typical tourist route. Our guide is surprised at our interest in taking extensive photos of the hippos despite the pouring rain. However, the price-performance ratio is questionable: with the entrance fee, crater visit and overnight stay, the costs add up to over 200 USD per person – an investment that is only worthwhile for photographers to a limited extent.

We spend the night at the “Simba A” campsite, where a fascinating safari spectacle takes place: Zebras graze between the tents and repeatedly show shy flight reactions. The temperatures on the crater rim are cool but bearable. The campsite is busy and we prepare our food in the shelter of the vehicle so that we can set off early the next morning.

Day 8-15: Nature photography in the Serengeti National Park

The drive to the Serengeti proves to be the most challenging stage of our safari. The corrugated iron road is dusty and shakes the vehicle like a vibration test. Fortunately, it stays dry. From Simba Campsite to Naabi Hill Gate it takes us a full 4 hours.

The staff at the gate are exemplary, professional and efficient. The Serengeti fees amount to 1500 USD. You have to check out at the Ngorongoro Crater Gate before you are allowed to enter the Serengeti.

The main road is extremely dusty, with safari vehicles traveling at 80 km/h. We stick to a cautious 40 km/h and enjoy an involuntary massage. Off the main road, we drive eastwards along the Seronera River towards Seronera village. There we pitch our tent on one of the public campsites before returning to the photo safari along the river.

The next few days of our Tanzania safari are characterized by fascinating encounters with big cats, although the perfect weather makes nature photography difficult. The consistently bright blue sky creates unfavorable lighting conditions. We search in vain for black rhinos at the Moru Kopjes. On the drive there, we cross sections of savannah blackened by bush fires and discover a calling cheetah on a termite mound.

The Seronera River proves to be a hotspot for wildlife during our safari. Lions, cheetahs and servals are regularly encountered, only the shy leopards remain hidden from us, as the guides explain. We are particularly lucky with cheetahs and even document a hunting scene. Elephants, hippos and hyenas also cross our path – the roads along the Seronera are a real stroke of luck for nature photographers. Unfortunately, the harsh light from 9 a.m. onwards makes photography almost impossible until late afternoon.

In Seronera we can refuel and stock up on supplies – 6 liters of water, rice, tinned food and two cokes cost only 22,000 TSH, much cheaper than in Karatu.

On November 3, we set off early for Lobo. The landscape changes dramatically as we head north, from open savannah to hilly scrubland. The density of tourists decreases and we are often alone on the road. The game drives around Lobo are photographically challenging due to interfering branches. Despite intensive searches, the lions, leopards and cheetahs living there remain invisible.

Arriving at the campsite, we find ourselves in complete solitude, surrounded by cliff dwellers whose characteristic smell fills the air – a typical experience during a Tanzania safari. The persistently perfect weather continues to make the nature photography trip difficult. Our days are spent on basic camping activities: snoozing, washing clothes and cleaning the car from the amazing savannah dust. The best photo opportunities are in the morning and evening hours.

The region around Lobo is home to numerous herds of buffalo, which regularly roam the campsite at night to graze on the lush grass at the waterhole. It is a surreal feeling to lie in your tent while a buffalo grazes right next door. The characteristic “laughs” of the hyenas also break the silence of the night. Caution: A large group of baboons is after unsecured vehicles – so always lock up well!

Lobo turns out to be a disappointment for our safari expectations. We might have had to get as far as the Mara to experience the famous River Crossings. However, we had not planned for the long journey and the necessary overnight stay on site for optimal photo light.

Day 16-19 Flamingos at Lake Natron

The final section of our nature photography trip takes us to Lake Natron, breeding ground for millions of lesser flamingos. The road conditions surpass even the rough tracks of the Serengeti in terms of difficulty. The road winds through boulders, dry riverbeds and sand dunes. The 6.5-hour drive from Klein’s Gate to Engare Sero is extremely strenuous. Wasso or Loliondo offer the last refueling facilities, ATMs and shopping opportunities – an important stopover before Lake Natron.

We move into the well-equipped Worldview Campsite at Lake Natron, which impresses with its spectacular location. A surprise awaits us: the lake is not located in a national park, but is under the administration of Engare Sero. The calculated overnight costs of USD 10 per person are just the beginning – the campsite owner confronts us with further unexpected charges:

• Road toll 30 USD once per vehicle
• Nature reserve fee 35 USD per person and day
• Activity fee 20-40 USD per person per day for flamingo watching

These additional costs are unavoidable – another example of the frustrating aspects of our nature photography trip through Tanzania. Without an official receipt or permit, we have to accept a young Maasai as an escort to attest to our official status in the village. The situation is opaque and annoying, made even more difficult by the intrusive begging in this structurally weak region.

We dedicate the next three days to flamingo photography and drive to the hot springs on the western shore of the lake, around 40 kilometers from the campsite. Here we actually find large colonies of flamingos and are able to take impressive high-key shots at dawn. However, the lack of a camouflage tent makes it difficult to approach the shy birds, making format-filling shots a matter of luck.

We move to the eastern shore for optimal afternoon light. The path leads through drifting sand directly onto the salt lake, where we drive over the salt crust to get closer to the flamingos. On the last day, the crust suddenly collapses and we are stuck in the middle of Lake Natron. With combined forces and a bit of luck, we free ourselves – a rescue would have been extremely difficult here.

Back to Arusha

The return journey to Arusha via Mto wa Mbu is mostly on tarmac roads and only takes 4.5 hours. We reach the bustling metropolis by midday. After returning the vehicle without any problems and receiving our deposit, Shilashi takes us to our accommodation at the airport. The next morning, we board our flight back to Europe – with over 15,000 photos in our luggage and mixed feelings about our Tanzania safari. But the prices charged to tourists (entry fees, “tourist prices”) are disproportionate and the question really arises as to whose pockets the revenue goes into. At the same time, the local people (e.g. guides) were helpful and friendly when they didn’t see us as a cash cow.

Photographically, the weather could have been a tad worse, a cloudy sky would have helped in many situations. The animals are also more active when it’s cooler. If the sun is shining, activity decreases rapidly from 9 a.m. and the day is over.