It’s a chilly morning in Norway’s Dovrefjell National Park as I set off to find the legendary musk oxen. The air was crisp and the mist still hung over the vast plains as I hiked through the barren but impressive autumnal landscape with my camera equipment.
After a few hours of searching and waiting, I finally spot a small herd of these majestic animals in the distance. I approached slowly and carefully, always taking care to keep the recommended distance of at least 200 meters so as not to disturb the animals.
The musk oxen look like relics from a bygone era – their massive bodies, thick fur and imposing horns make them an impressive sight.
Dovrefjell is a high plateau in central Norway and part of the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park, which was established in 2002. Its soft ridges with Snøhetta as the highest peak (2286m above sea level) are the habitat of many Arctic species: besides musk oxen, Arctic foxes and reindeer live here, golden and Mornell’s plovers breed and great divers nest on the lakes. Musk oxen were introduced from Greenland in the 1930s and the population has been maintained as the mountain peaks are free of snow in winter and the cloven-hoofed animals can therefore find sufficient food.
Arrival and accommodation
The journey to the musk oxen in Dovrfjell always leads from Oslo along the E6, which also leads directly through Dovrfjell. I can only recommend Magalaupe Camping as a campsite, where there are pitches for tents and motorhomes as well as cabins and a small kiosk. Of course you can also camp in the wild, but the stony ground makes it difficult to pitch a tent safely in many places. You can buy food in the large shopping center in Oppdal. It’s easy to shop there over lunch. If you are looking for a (touristy) snack bar or souvenir store, you will find one in Hjerkinn.
Where do the musk oxen live in Dovrefjell?
To find musk oxen, you first need to know where they prefer to be. They prefer areas where there is enough food: Tundra but also the low scrubland in the valleys.
In the fall, many of the animals live in herds with several females and their calves, and the bulls move between the herds to leave their genetic imprint wherever possible. This can sometimes lead to fights over rank, during which the “clang” of the ossified forehead plates colliding with each other can be heard from afar (if the wind, which is usually present, allows it). Especially in the fall, you shouldn’t get too close to or stand in the way of the hormone-pumped males roaming around alone. Musk oxen are quick to attack and, although they appear sluggish, they can be very fast. Every year, nature photographers are seriously injured in Dovrefjell because they have overestimated their own abilities or failed to notice an animal’s distinct snort.
The hamlet of Kongsvold is a good starting point for hikes into Dovrefjell in search of a herd of musk oxen. From there, a path leads through a small birch forest up to the high plateau. Be careful: even in the forest, male musk oxen like to hang around and the path loops so that you can’t always see around the next bend. It is advisable to talk loudly in the forest so as not to frighten any resting animals.
Once on the high plateau, you can now scan the ridges with binoculars and look out for dark spots in the landscape. At a distance, ruminating musk oxen look very similar to large rocks and you have to look closely to recognize them.
Another alternative: the military training area in Hjerkinn. You can enter the area from there and keep an eye out for the herds to the left and right of the road. I recommend taking the circular route to the north, as I have often had success there.
What photo equipment do I need for musk oxen?
Even though musk oxen are large primordial animals, you should take a telephoto lens with you. The distances can be great.
My favorite equipment in Dovrefjell:
- D4 & 500mm
- D800 and 80-400mm
- Tripod or monopod (depending on the distance to be hiked)
- 24-85mm standard zoom
- enough water or tea
- Muesli bar
I can get by with it and have all the focal lengths I need for photographing musk oxen.
Behaviors
You can approach the animals slowly and calmly. It is important not to approach the herd directly, but to slowly close the distance in an arc. The longer you take your time, the closer you can get without startling the herd. Like all animals, musk oxen are individuals. There is no point in trying to force a picture for the sake of it. I have observed groups of photographers circling the herd and thus cutting off the animals’ path. Is it worth it just for good photos? I don’t think so. Nature photographers should set a good example and not harass.
As the sun slowly sets and the landscape is bathed in golden light, I make my way back, filled with impressions and emotions. The encounter with the musk oxen in Dovrefjell is not only a photographic highlight, but also an incredible experience that brings the raw beauty of Norway’s wilderness home to me.
